Collective Racing

This seems to be a hot topic for the H22 owners out there. Here is a step by step "how to" conversion to the more reliable H23 (manual) style of tensioner. The H22a block used, is obviously a "mock-up", so don't be critical of the missing pieces. This conversion can be done in the car, but in this case it was done out of the car for illustration purposes only.


Parts list:

13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT
13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER
14510-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., TIMING BELT
14516-PT2-000 - SPRING COMP., TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER
90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE
90015-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER SPRING
90016-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)

Here is a link for the parts list:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto....%282%29 (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Prelude&catcgry2=1994&catcgry3=2DR+SI&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=CAMSHAFT-TIMING+BELT+%282%29)

This is a frontal and side shot of what the auto tensioner set up looks like with the timing belt cover, balance shaft crank pulley, balance shaft belt, and timing belt out of the way.
All of these thing will need to be removed to do this conversion.
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e030.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e0007.jpg)

Start by removing the auto tensioner pieces. These following pictures should be fairly self explanitory.
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e0008.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e021.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e026.jpg)

These following pieces will be removed from the h22 in this step and set aside for later use.
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e031.jpg)

With the parts removed this is what it looks like.
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e013.jpg)

This step, we will remove the troubsome auto tensioner.
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e0006.jpg)

With the auto tesioner gone, we will remove the rest of the tensioner mechanism. The following pictures should be self explanatory.
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e025.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e014.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e032.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e0004.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e0009.jpg)

Now, with the complete auto tesioner mechanism removed, we are ready to add the manual tensioner parts.
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e022.jpg)

This bolt and washer are what we start with. The  factory washer is critical! It has a larger diameter than the block casting. This is a factory Honda part #90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM), but for those of you who are lazy or pinching pennies, the diameter is 40mm and the thickness is 1.5mm If the wrong washer is used, improper alignment can occure as well as limited movement of the timing belt tensioner pulley.
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e016.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e0003.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e017.jpg)

These 2 pieces will be added next.
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e012.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e019.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e029.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e044.jpg)

Add the timing belt tensioner pulley and check to see if it has full movement on its pivot.
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e036.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e037.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e038.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e045.jpg)

Next we will install the balance shaft tensioner pulley. For this install, we will re-use the H22 part. The H23 part has a larger spacer that places it further out away from the timing belt pulley. I recomend using the H23 part (not shown), but with a few washers (used as spacers) the H22 pulley (pictured) can be used correctly.
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e047.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e048.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e050.jpg)

If you are reusing the H22 part, MAKE SURE THE PULLEYS CLEAR EACH OTHER! This is a common mistake and can be catastrophic. When reusing the h22 balance shaft tensioner pulley, the pulleys must not touch! if you are using a h23 balance shaft tensioner pulley, there is no need to worry. it is already spaced properly.
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e039.jpg)

Reinstall the balance shaft tensioner retainer.
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e041.jpg)

Manual style tensioner in place completely. front and side views.
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e043.jpg)
(http://www.collectiveracing.net/images/howto/e/e042.jpg)

Awesome write up Christian.....and you too Scott!!!

yeah uhmmm... thanks for including me in this write up.

lol...we all know who did all the work and pics etc......

Yea, we can tell by that ugly hand in the pics...

Lol, I'm jk Scott

yeah....it is pretty hairy and white huh.......haha

LMFAO

Have you guys checked this out, seems like a good kit for eliminating the balancers:
http://www.kaizenspeed.com/products_AA.html

^^^^^

yes i m gonna order that on monday with the h23 tensioner parts does anyone know if i still need to order the balancer tensioner ? kinda pointless if theres no more balncer belt and spend 50$ on the tensioner do i just leave it out or does it still has to be there ?

can someone please let me which parts i need to order to do the tensioner convertion with out balance shafts ?


i know i dont need the balancer tensioner anymore do i need the bracket .. the springs ?

^^^^
Let me know how it goes...

The only question I have is once you tighten the nut on the tensioner bolt....will it allow the tensioner to self adjust? Cause after i tightened mine it seems like the tensioner is pretty much tight and locked in place

i need this answered ASAP i just got all the parts stated above including the plate adjuster in the steps it doesnt show or explain anythin about it. where does it go ?

You will use all the parts on the list. There is a bracket  in the parts list...  I chose to omit. This has been posted on just about every site. Look at the pictures... if you follow them, you will have a functioning tensioner. It isn't all that difficult. Have some faith in yourself that you can figure it out. I am sure you can.

 This is not meant derogatory in any manner, but I am sorry that I am unable to respond to your demands of ASAP... as I have a life outside of the internet too. I also responded to your inquiry on honda-tech as well.

Once the the bolt is tight, the tensioner pulley is locked in place. This is different than the auto tensioner that was removed. Tightening the bolt should be te last step of ajusting the timing belt. to adjust the timing belt, follow the steps for the f22 or h23.

remove the auto tensioner and the new bracket should screw right into where you remove it from

I would think this conversion can be done to the h22a7 type r (UKDM)... can you confirm?

Started hearing a diesel type noise which leads me to believe the auto tensioner is on its way out  :(

Cheers

The a7 block shares the same casting as the US a4. The conversion can be done.

Welcome. :D

Thanks very much  :D

Scott,
I did this swap on my h22a4 powered integra,and it sounds like there is a slight whine. Is there too much tension on the timing belt?? What would the symptoms of an overly tight timing belt be?? thanks!!

If the belt is too tight a whine can occure. Did you replace the tesioner pulley with a new part?

That I did....replaced both bearings (timing and balancer) and used all the parts in your writeup...I probably put the belt a little tight.

Thanks Scott!!!

TTT

am i right in thinking that with a manual tensioner once everything is on you turn the engine over backwards 180 degree and then tighten the tensioner nut and it should be all set to go ?

I just did this conversion, and i found putting the T-belt back on extremely difficult. The timing belt tensioner pulley is bigger then the stock pulley, even with loosening the tension off as much as possible it was very tight. Anyways though i got it all back together and its running nice and smooth. But whoever is attempting to do this conversion, just take note that it will be hard to put the belt on and i wouldnt attempt this unless your confident you can do it.

Anyone else getting a whine from the T-belt? We have the tensioner set to as loose as it can be and we are still getting a whine.

Does the whine go away after some time?  Should I drive the car this way?

This is on a 01' SH, w/ the H23 pulley.

I would 100% have to agree.  I just converted my h22 over from auto to manual timing belt tensioner setup and my darn belt was extremetly tight.  It doesn't seem right.  I have all the suggested parts that are required to do the conversion.  I took notice that the h22 timing belt tensioner pulley diameter is a lot smaller the the h23 pulley; this is why we struggled putting on the belt even with all the tension release before the installation.  I did manage to get the timing belt on but I'm about 1 tooth off on the crank pulley? The belt should be slightly longer.  A mechanics that has installed hundreds of belts overlooked mine when I was setting it up, and he never struggled so much putting a timing belt on in his life!  I believe this conversion is not sutiable using the stock h22 timing belt, or else honda quality department shipped a lot full of oversized H23 tensioner pulleys.  Any advise, please shoot away.   
thanks

It is funny... this write-up has been used for years now all over the internet. People use the same parts listed without issue, except that the timing belt takes a little bit of effort to put on. I do quite a few conversions and I guess I have developed a really easy way to get the belt on and lined up. Your mechanic should have double checked the alignment befor calling it finished.

Scott,  What is the trick to get the belt on besides pacients?  Is there a perticular sequence that you go through (crank pulley, tensioner, water pump, intake cam, and exhaust cam)?  Is it ok if I rotate the crankshaft CCW to work the belt on, assuming the belt will not skip a tooth?

thanks again for all the help...

in one of the pictures you have 5 bags from honda...


if you are reusing parts from the h22 auto tensioner are those the only parts that you need to convert it to manual?

or what?

im just a little confused...im used to d-series and b-series...

h-series is new in my head

Scott,  This is Justin.  I felt determined that I was one tooth off on the crank pulley.  So I attempted to correct this timing belt issue, due to the motor not continually running.  I finished everything up on Sunday, and cranked her over and wallah, BEAUTIFUL.  She ran for ten minutes and cycled through cooling fan operation.  The only little probelm that remains is the check engine light now kicks on after running for a minute or so?  I guess this could be due to a temporally p14 ECU, and right now the exhaust runs right out of the header.  Where can I find a 93' prelude check engine service connector? 

To finish things up all we have to do is shoot the timing light to adjust the proper ignition timing.  I'm assuming this should be set to 15 deg. +/-2 deg.  This is a little different than my b series.  Do I shoot the light on the little window on the block that displays the mark that is on the flywheel?  Is it done this way because the crank pulley doesn't display any identification marks?

Thanks for the intake manifold and all your helpful tech support!

Ok I just did this conversion on my 2000 lude last weekend and sure enough it was really hard to get the belt and it is very tight. Now there is a slight whine comimg from the belt. So how can i fix this if the tensioner is not even tensioning the belt cuz its so tight...Will this hurt my engine or will the belt eventually stretch a little??

I have a question about this conversion. I see people have a little trouble getting the belt on because the h23 tensioner pulley is a little bigger. Should we use the h23 timing belt on this conversion as well, or just use the h22 belt?

with this conversion do you use the H23 belt or the H22 belt??

Notably absent from the photos and procedures in this post is the purchase and installation of "adjuster plate" 14521-p14-A00, which is listed in the parts list.  This is a triangular plate that mounts where the auto tensioner came out that gives you a hole to put a bolt through to secure the timing belt pulley after adjustment.  In the photo there is nothing to send through the "half moon" to secure the pulley after adjustment.

Also, all the belt whining and difficulty getting the belt on can be remedied if people understand that they are installing the manual tensioner off of a H23.  Yes, the H23 timing belt fits better.  No change in length for the balance shaft belt so the H22 goes on OK.

up

Im bringing this thread back up as im having a problem with this conversion. I followed everything to the T with all bolts/washers correct. I have tried with and without the #20 bracket on and still no luck. The belt is just way too tight. I cant get it on and the tensioner is all the way loose. I read alot of other people had this problem too how can i fix this? Is there a trick to getting the belt on? All the arrows are pointing straight up and everything is on right.