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Author Topic: H22 auto tensioner to manual tensioner conversion  (Read 24496 times)
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Jfryeguy2
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« Reply #30 on: July 17, 2006, 09:20:19 AM »


It is funny... this write-up has been used for years now all over the internet. People use the same parts listed without issue, except that the timing belt takes a little bit of effort to put on. I do quite a few conversions and I guess I have developed a really easy way to get the belt on and lined up. Your mechanic should have double checked the alignment before calling it finished.

Scott,  This is Justin.  I felt determined that I was one tooth off on the crank pulley.  So I attempted to correct this timing belt issue, due to the motor not continually running.  I finished everything up on Sunday, and cranked her over and wallah, BEAUTIFUL.  She ran for ten minutes and cycled through cooling fan operation.  The only little probelm that remains is the check engine light now kicks on after running for a minute or so?  I guess this could be due to a temporally p14 ECU, and right now the exhaust runs right out of the header.  Where can I find a 93' prelude check engine service connector? 

To finish things up all we have to do is shoot the timing light to adjust the proper ignition timing.  I'm assuming this should be set to 15 deg. +/-2 deg.  This is a little different than my b series.  Do I shoot the light on the little window on the block that displays the mark that is on the flywheel?  Is it done this way because the crank pulley doesn't display any identification marks?

Thanks for the intake manifold and all your helpful tech support!
« Last Edit: July 17, 2006, 09:24:24 AM by Jfryeguy2 » Logged

Josh
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« Reply #31 on: August 05, 2006, 08:20:15 AM »


Ok I just did this conversion on my 2000 lude last weekend and sure enough it was really hard to get the belt and it is very tight. Now there is a slight whine comimg from the belt. So how can i fix this if the tensioner is not even tensioning the belt cuz its so tight...Will this hurt my engine or will the belt eventually stretch a little??
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90AccordVTEC
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« Reply #32 on: September 02, 2006, 11:19:12 PM »

I have a question about this conversion. I see people have a little trouble getting the belt on because the h23 tensioner pulley is a little bigger. Should we use the h23 timing belt on this conversion as well, or just use the h22 belt?
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wle05
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« Reply #33 on: November 07, 2006, 05:45:14 PM »

with this conversion do you use the H23 belt or the H22 belt??
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Mulepick
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« Reply #34 on: January 20, 2007, 01:43:18 AM »

Notably absent from the photos and procedures in this post is the purchase and installation of "adjuster plate" 14521-p14-A00, which is listed in the parts list.  This is a triangular plate that mounts where the auto tensioner came out that gives you a hole to put a bolt through to secure the timing belt pulley after adjustment.  In the photo there is nothing to send through the "half moon" to secure the pulley after adjustment.

Also, all the belt whining and difficulty getting the belt on can be remedied if people understand that they are installing the manual tensioner off of a H23.  Yes, the H23 timing belt fits better.  No change in length for the balance shaft belt so the H22 goes on OK.
« Last Edit: January 20, 2007, 01:49:19 AM by Mulepick » Logged
Gen2ITR
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« Reply #35 on: January 21, 2008, 12:28:50 AM »

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turboedsupe
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« Reply #36 on: September 20, 2008, 07:56:48 PM »

Im bringing this thread back up as im having a problem with this conversion. I followed everything to the T with all bolts/washers correct. I have tried with and without the #20 bracket on and still no luck. The belt is just way too tight. I cant get it on and the tensioner is all the way loose. I read alot of other people had this problem too how can i fix this? Is there a trick to getting the belt on? All the arrows are pointing straight up and everything is on right.
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