This seems to be a hot topic for the H22 owners out there. Here is a step by step "how to" conversion to the more reliable H23 (manual) style of tensioner. The H22a block used, is obviously a "mock-up", so don't be critical of the missing pieces. This conversion can be done in the car, but in this case it was done out of the car for illustration purposes only.


Parts list:

13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT
13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER
14510-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., TIMING BELT
14516-PT2-000 - SPRING COMP., TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER
90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE
90015-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER SPRING
90016-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)

Here is a link for the parts list:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto....%282%29

This is a frontal and side shot of what the auto tensioner set up looks like with the timing belt cover, balance shaft crank pulley, balance shaft belt, and timing belt out of the way.
All of these thing will need to be removed to do this conversion.



Start by removing the auto tensioner pieces. These following pictures should be fairly self explanitory.




These following pieces will be removed from the h22 in this step and set aside for later use.


With the parts removed this is what it looks like.


This step, we will remove the troubsome auto tensioner.


With the auto tesioner gone, we will remove the rest of the tensioner mechanism. The following pictures should be self explanatory.






Now, with the complete auto tesioner mechanism removed, we are ready to add the manual tensioner parts.


This bolt and washer are what we start with. The  factory washer is critical! It has a larger diameter than the block casting. This is a factory Honda part #90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM), but for those of you who are lazy or pinching pennies, the diameter is 40mm and the thickness is 1.5mm If the wrong washer is used, improper alignment can occure as well as limited movement of the timing belt tensioner pulley.




These 2 pieces will be added next.





Add the timing belt tensioner pulley and check to see if it has full movement on its pivot.





Next we will install the balance shaft tensioner pulley. For this install, we will re-use the H22 part. The H23 part has a larger spacer that places it further out away from the timing belt pulley. I recomend using the H23 part (not shown), but with a few washers (used as spacers) the H22 pulley (pictured) can be used correctly.




If you are reusing the H22 part, MAKE SURE THE PULLEYS CLEAR EACH OTHER! This is a common mistake and can be catastrophic. When reusing the h22 balance shaft tensioner pulley, the pulleys must not touch! if you are using a h23 balance shaft tensioner pulley, there is no need to worry. it is already spaced properly.


Reinstall the balance shaft tensioner retainer.


Manual style tensioner in place completely. front and side views.

yeah uhmmm... thanks for including me in this write up.

Yea, we can tell by that ugly hand in the pics...

Lol, I'm jk Scott

LMFAO

^^^^^

yes i m gonna order that on monday with the h23 tensioner parts does anyone know if i still need to order the balancer tensioner ? kinda pointless if theres no more balncer belt and spend 50$ on the tensioner do i just leave it out or does it still has to be there ?

^^^^
Let me know how it goes...

i need this answered ASAP i just got all the parts stated above including the plate adjuster in the steps it doesnt show or explain anythin about it. where does it go ?

Once the the bolt is tight, the tensioner pulley is locked in place. This is different than the auto tensioner that was removed. Tightening the bolt should be te last step of ajusting the timing belt. to adjust the timing belt, follow the steps for the f22 or h23.