This upgrade can be done several ways. It is not a difficult Install, but there is a lot more to make it work than just bolting it on. The steps I took here are just for suggestion and can be modified to fit different cars. Look closely at all of the pictures to get a better understanding of what was done. The pictures are not step by step, but are here just for reference. The following steps are what I took to make the manifold work on my 90 Accord Hybrid. Please note that I also use a Hondata intake manifold gasket, so some of the coolant lines to the IAC are deleted. I also HIGHLY recomend porting out the manifold to match the stock gasket. This will open the area up around the fuel injectors cosiderably. (not pictured)First, I bolted the Euro manifold flange to flange with the stock manifold. I then used a scribe to mark the area I intended to remove (arches). I carefully ground out the area to match the stock manifold. This took more time to do, but if you place the manifold on the head you can notch out smaller sections which will make istallation faster.
I also ground down the top of the flange to clear the oil passage on the head. Note the small holes above the port. These I drilled, tapped and locktited some set screws in place to plug them.
I then moved the vacuum port for the brake booster from the top to the rear of the IM. I tapped and plugged the old location.
I also plugged the port on the front of the IM.
In the following pictures, it shows that I reused the stock IAC. This was a little tricky to do and my pictures are somewhat vague, but if you look closely in some of the other pictures you can see where I used a thin piece of aluminum to "adapt" the IAC valve. For this I placed the aluminum plate on the manifold and from the inside I used an angle scribe to make the 2 ports. I then mached up my marks with the IAC and drilled 2 respective holes. placement for this can be tricky but a little experimentation will prove positive results. after making sure that the ports line up, I used Hondabond between the plate and the manifold to insure a good seal then I secured the IAC with 2 (10mm bolt head) bolts. The lower one I had to drill and tap into the IM. This was fairly easy. I also had to lengthen the wires for the IAC as well.
Below is a picture of the plate adapter I made.
Here are some pictures of how I mounted the Fuel rail. Again these are just suggestions.
The rail I used was a stock 90 accord rail that was slightly modified. as well. The bracket for the fuel rail was made out of metric all thread, Aluminum tubing (used as a spacer) and 12mm square bar stock. On the bar stock, I drilled and tapped holes that lined up with the 2 outer bolt holes on the fuel rail. For the aluminum spacers, I placed the fuel injectors in place with the fuel rail. I had holes drilled in the bar stock whick allowed for some movement to get the right placement. I placed 12mm nuts (seen in the pictues) to secure the all thread, then I measured measured between the nut and the bar stock to get the right length for the aluminum spacers.
This is what the IM looks like with the fuel rail set in place.
The Pictures of the manifold on the car will be posted soon. The Intake air temp sensor will have to be from a late model CRV or Accord (1999+)
Here are the updated pictures of the portwork That I did around the fuel injectors.
This picture shows that I used a 4th gen Accord fuel rail. At the center of the rail, there was a monting point which I cut off all together. This was done to clear the 10mm bolt head on the EGR tube cover plate.
This is a shot of how the rail looks mounted in place.
In my opinion, the manifold was a nice improvement over the stock set up in responsiveness and feel (butt dyno). It looks a lot cleaner as well, but the true test will be on the dyno to see if it was all worth while.
These new parts are availible directly from Collective Racing and make this conversion a lot easier.
